Biography and Legacy of Togden Ugyen Chogyal in Kheng Phykor (Shingkhar and Bardo Gewogs), Zhemgang.

 

Introduction

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Togden Ugyen Chogyal (1919-2001) popularly known as Meme Lama in Kheng Phykor (upper Kheng), Zhemgang remained as a great Buddhist teacher and treasure revealer of the 19^th century. He is little known to the rest of the Bhutanese and the world, as he secluded from a worldly name, fame and pride. It is mentioned that, whenever his most devoted disciples and followers offered him the permanent residence, he simply refused and went meditating in isolated mountains of Kheng region. He spent more than half of his life in Kheng Phykor teaching Buddha dharma and reviving many terma (holy places) at various villages of Kheng. Togden Ugyen Chogyal peacefully passed away in 2001 at Radhi Goenpa of Shingkhar Gewog. Radhi Lama Dechen Dorji and an astrologer late Mr. Sangay Dorji of Radhi Village initiated the funeral and built a stupa (Kudung Chorten) in an affectionate memory of great Togden.

Though Togden Ugyen Chogyal was considered as profound master, other than oral history, no document of his biography were to be found during this study. Therefore, this article strives to present a brief biography of his eminence Togden Ugyen Chogyal and his great legacy being left in Kheng Phykor. The discussion is based on the interview conducted with Togden’s heart son Lama Dechen Dorji of Radhi Village and the spiritual son Lama Jigme Cheda of Thrisa Village of Shingkhar Gewog, Zhemgang. In addition, critical literature were reviewed wherever possible to make the discussion valid and reliable.

Early life and Education of Togden Ugyen Chogyal

Togden Ugyen Chogyal was born in Wamphu Goenpa of Jurmey Gewog in Mongar district in 1919 corresponding to the earth sheep year. His father Gungtse Rinpoche was a highly learned man. It is mentioned that Gungtse Rinpoche was one of the closest disciples of highly accomplished Buddhist master Togden Shacha Sherye (1853-1919). Lama Jigme Cheda pointed out that Gungste Rinpoche stayed nine years in Kham (Tibet) receiving teachings from his root Guru, Togden Shacha Sherye. As a legitimate son, Togden Ugyen Chogyal received basic reading and writing skills from his father and later empowerment on preliminary practices during his teenage time. When he was twenty years old, he completed first three years meditation on preliminary practices of Dzogchen tradition under the spiritual guidance of his father.

After the ultimate demise of his father, sometime in 1940s, Togden travelled to Aja Nye of Mongar district in search of learned Buddhist Masters to receive further religious teachings. There, he met with 9^th Buli Trulku Kachab Namkha Dorji and received Longchen Nyingthik teachings. His meeting with Buli Trueku at Mongar Aja Ney is confirmed beyond reasonable doubt as Buli Trulku arrived at Aja Nye in the 1920s and devoted the rest of life meditating and teaching for his disciples and devotees from far and near (Wangchuk, 2004).

The 9^th Buli Truelku was reincarnation of Yudra Nyingpo born to Buli Chojay of Bumtahng Chumey and received teaching from the great master such as 15^th Karmapa Khachab Dorji, Kathog Situ Rinpoche, Togden Shacha Sherye and Baeyuel Rinpoche Kuzhu Jigme Thinley. Togden completed three years meditation for three consecutive terms under the strict guidance and advice of Buli Truelku at Funyingla (the heart of the mountains) located at the vicinity of Aja Ney.

When Togden was about 38 years old, in 1958, he went to Kalimpong after he heard about an extraordinary master Dudjom Rinpoche Jigdral Yeshe Dorje (1904-1987). He lived about three years at Kalimpong receiving deeper religious teaching and instructions from Dudjom Rinpoche. The meeting of Togden and Dudjom Rinpoche at Kalimpong was found authentic as interview data concur with literature review. Thaye (2015) states that upon leaving Tibet, His Holiness Dudjom Rinpoche settled in Kalimpong, India, in 1957, and then later in Kathmandu, Nepal, in 1975. Therefore, it is concluded that Togden Ugyen Chogyal was one of the students of Dudjom Rimpoche at Kalimpong from 1958 to 1961.

Togden’s prophecy to Kheng Phykor (Shingkhar and Bardo Gewog)

According to Radhi Lama Dechen Dorji, while at Kalimpong, Togden went to seek stones to be used for providing the stable platform for the pan to be placed over the firewood and prepare dinner. Since, he could not find any stones nearby his camp site, he trespassed in someone’s kitchen garden. When he was about to lift a stone, an old local woman supposed to be the land owner came approaching him with an angry stare and warned him not to take anything from her field.  This incident made him realize that Kalimpong was not his destined place. Therefore, he decided to return to Bhutan.

Togden returned to Bhutan in early 1960’s through Gelephu and spent few years at Nimshong village of Trongsa. Later he heard about his in-law brother at Shingkhar, Zhemgang and went to meet his in-law Mr. Gyeltshen. Lama Jigme Cheda mentioned that Mr. Gyeltshen served as Boegarp (court attendants) at Wangdicholing, Bumthang. As a Boegarp, Mr. Gyeltshen made frequent travel to Kheng Shingkar and later he got married to a lady from Shingkhar and settled there. The Kheng region was under the direct control of the Royal court of Wangdicholing until major social and political reform was initiated by His Majesty the third Druk Gyalpo. At shingkhar, Togden continued his mediation at different places and teaching his new disciples and transferring phowa (transfer of consciousness) empowerment.

Reviving of Terma (Kujey Nye) at Shingkhar Village.

As per the prophecy of Guru Rinpoche, translated by Thinley (2016); “A place [in Bhutan] that I have not set my foot on, even the size of a horse-hoe or same is not there! It is evident that Bhutan is the kingdom of hidden treasures as many sacred treasure were revealed and many Rinpoche’s of our time continue to revive treasures. Togden Ugyen Chogyal was one of great Buddhist master of our time, who revived many terma in Kheng region. One of the scared terma discovered by him is Shingkhar Kujey Nye. Lama Jigme Cheda pointed out that when Togden was meditating at placed called Grahajong (above Shingkar village), he had a dream of Kujey Nye and he instructed people of Shingkhar to search for it.

Later his disciples constructed a temple at Kujey Nye and the place became the popular site of meditation for the practitioners from the community. The great Togden has meditated at Kujey Ney for about 5 years and went to Thrisa village as per the invitation of the followers and people of the community. He lived more than a decades at Thrisa village upon the repeated request of the community people. Later his spiritual son current Thrisa lama Jigme Cheda settled at Thisa village and became ultimate refuge for Thispa and nearby villagers.

Bardo Lo Nga Ney

The significance of Lo Nga Ney in Bardho Geowg of Zhemgang district has remained unexplored until Togden Ugyen Chogyal meditated at Lo Nga Ney for three years in the mid-1980s. Wangchuk (2019) claims that Lo Nga means five years and Ney means sacred place which is untouched site of Guru Rinpoche, who was believed to have meditated there for five years along with his consort Khandro Monmo Tashi Khyuedron to tame evil spirits that caused misfortunes and deaths in the region.

After the arrival of Togden at Lo Nga Ney, local people made frequent visits to this place to receive teachings and empowerment from him. It was during that time the great Togden shared about the significance and sacredness of Lo Nga Ney to his disciples and this has helped to promote Lo Nga Ney as one of the sacred Ney in Bhutan. The other reason for the popularity of Lo Nga Ney is because of the extraordinary healing power of drupchu. There are two different drupchu which was believed to be the holy urine of Guru Rinpoche and Khandro Monmo Tashi Khyuedron. Both the drupchus have the power to heal internal and external wounds, cough, skin diseases, and joint pain, back pain, and cleanse all impurities (Wangchuk, 2019). 

Kengcham of Radhi Chotpa

In Bhutan, mask dance was first introduced by Guru Rinpoche in the 8^th century, when he came to Bumthang upon the invitation of Sendha Gyalpo, the King of Chagkhar to subjugate Shelging Karpo, the local deity. Guru Rinpoche manifested into eight different forms performing dances and subjugated Shelging Karpo (Dorji, 2015). Therefore, the tradition of mask dance remains as one of the intangible culture heritages of Bhutan.

Although it is unknown when and how Chotpa was introduced in Shingkhar and Bardo gewog, all the villages of the two gewogs celebrate the festival known as Chotpa during the 15^th day of the 10^th month of the Bhutanese calendar. Similar to Dzongkhag Tshechu performed by Rabdey, the villagers perform different mask dances for three consecutive days. Togden Ugyen Chogyal was a great mask dancer and the finest wood crafter. He had designed mask and introduced Raksha Mangcham in Thrisa, Khomshar and Nimshong Chotpa. 

One of the significant mask dances introduced by him was Kengcham which is usually perform during last day of Radhi Chotpa. It is claimed that Togden composed Kengcham during his stay at Bardo Gewog. According to Radhi Lam Dechen Dorji, he mentions that when Togden was alone and meditating nearby a deceased body at Jowaling, Bardo gewog, four Kengs appeared from four directions performing the dances. Togden immediately designed a model of Keng mask using dough. Later he crafted the wooden mask and introduced Kengcham in Khomshar, Nimshong and Radhi village.

 Conclusion

As discussed in the introduction part of this article, Togden Ugyen Chogyal had never settled in one place retaining the ownership of the residence or land, in fact he wandered from place to place upon the request of the community. In early 1990s, upon the numerous requests from his closest disciples and elderly people of Radhi village, he travelled from Nimshong and resided in the mountain above Radhi village. He continued teaching and guiding his disciples through the process of meditation. 

Although many of his disciples had passed away, some of his closest disciples were still living for the benefit of sentient beings. One of his living students is Drupthob Kuenzang Lhawang from Thrisa. He currently lives in Jomolhari. According to GBoW (2019), Drupthob has been meditating for 20 years as of now. During his 20 years of meditation, Drupthob went to every cremation of 20 Dzongkhags including Sikkim and Kalimpong performing chod (offering one’s own bodies, for the sake of others, as a tantric feast to sentient beings). For his great accomplishment in mediation and pure devotion to Buddha dharma, he received dharma name as Drupthob Jigme Samten from His Holiness, Truelku Jigme Cheda, the 70^th Jekhenpo of Bhutan. Other living disciples also include Thrisa Lam Jigme Cheda and Radhi Lama Dechen Dorji whom I had introduced as informants of this study in the introduction part. This article may not have been conceived without tremendous support from them. Therefore, I owe my deepest respect and gratitude for both of them and all the individuals who provided me with moral and material support in completing this study.

Researcher: © Norbu Wangdi, 2020.

Informants: Lama Jigme Cheda and Dechen Dorji.

References

Dorji, J. (2015). Intangible Cultural Heritage of Bhutan. Research & Media Division, National 

Library & Archives of Bhutan.

GBoW. (2019, July 7, 2019).Nyeljorpa or Drupthob [status update].

Facebook. https://www.facebook.com/GreatBeingsoftheWorld/posts/1287865278043119

Thinley, K. (2016). Guru Rinpoche’s Exclusive Sacred Places in Bhutan (Translated by

Phuntsho Gyaltshen). Journal of Bhutan Studies. (34): 57-79.

Thaye, Y. (2015). A Short Life Story of His Holiness KyabjeDudjom Rinpoche (1904-1987).

Retrieved from https://dudjominternational.org/?page_id=268

Wangchuk, K.(2019). Longaney in Zhemgang. Zhemgang Monthly: from the steps to leaps.6:6-7.

Wangchuk, R.  (2004). The myth and the mystery of Aja Nye. Journal of Bhutan Studies.

(10):40-49.         

 

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Brief History of Radhi Serpong Lhakhang, Shingkhar Gewog, Zhemgang

Radhi Serpong Lhakhang is located above Radhi village in Shingkhar Gewog, under Zhemgang District. It stands on the hill-top above the village overlooking beautiful other Kheng valleys and gorgeous Chamkharchu River. It is approximately 125 km away from district head quarter and takes about 4 hours by car. The only Lhakhang of the village serves as holy place for villagers to perform annual Tshechu (Radhi Chotpa) and other religious ceremonies. It is one of the oldest Lhakhangs in the country. Present Radhi Lama Dechen Dorji (75 years old) states that no history could have been recorded the exact date of construction of the Lhakhang as the Lhakhang was built since the immemorial time. He mentions that none of his great grand-parents could narrate the history of Radhi Lhakhang. Therefore, it is possible that the Lhakhang came into existence since the visit of Guru Rinpoche in the 8th century. Although, Lhakhang existed for centuries, none of the scholars and government officers bothered to conduct proper historical study about Lhakhang owing to its remote location. In this regard, the significance of Radhi Lhakhang has remain unknown to the rest of the Bhutanese. The sacred nangten (inner treasure) of the Lhakhang is Sergi Phub (golden Vajra) which was preserved since the inception of Lhakhang in the village. Another significant nagnten include statue of Avalokitesvara with One Thousand Hands and Eyes (Chagtongchentong) Chenrigzey (Buddha of compassion) which is said to be donated by First Druk Gyalpo, Gongsa Ugyen Wangchuk (1862–1926). The present Chabje Namkhai Nyingpo had also donated huge statue of Guru Rinpoche in early 2000 which is also considered as sacred monuments of the Lhakhang. The annual Radhi Chotpa is conducted in the courtyard of the Lhakhang for three consecutive days which falls in 10th month (15th to 18th day) of the Bhutanese calendar. Another informant, Mr Rinzin (elder man of the village) pointed out that Lhakhang could have been renovated for uncountable times since for centuries, however, it was renovated for only two times during his life-time. The two times renovation was carried out by the villagers without any support from the government or any other agencies. The Lhakhang was blessed by Chabje Namkhai Nyingpo for several times and Rinpoche even spent a night mediating during every visit. Later, sometime in early 2000, government has sponsored to carry out the inner paintings (Deprey) of the Lhakhang. At present, Radhi Lhakhang is in urgent need of major renovation due to several earthquake that has occurred in Bhutan over the years. In addition, the Lhakhang is too small and it causes lots of inconveniences for the villagers while performing annual Chotpa and other religious ceremonies. Therefore, villages had proposed for major maintenance budget and we are overwhelmed to receive a sum of nu. 1 million for the financial year 2021-2022. However, the amount is too less for us to carry out the renovation project. In this regard, we are humbly seeking any amount of donation from our generous supporters and well-wishers. Any amount of your donation to our project means a lot to us.

 Informants: 

1. Lama Dechen Dorji (present Radhi Lama) 

2. Mr. Rinzin, (Elder man of the village 

3. Mr. Tshering Wangdi (Radhi Tshogpa) 

Researcher: Norbu Wangdi

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An amateur blogger is back.

A year has been elapsed without having touch with my little world. The world that connects me to the other parts of world, the world that makes me one step wiser than the day before, and the world that flavours the journey of my life.
I don’t know what barred me from writing for last one year. Still I am just wondering how a year has been passed without a single update. Today when I flip back the pages of the year, I found nothing extraordinary achievements was recorded. My diary for the year 2016 is still virgin. A year has been simply wasted in vain.

But I believe it is better to be late than never. “ Don’t be afraid of moving slowly but be afraid of standing still” says someone. After a gap of a year I have almost  lost my confidence in writing. However with much hesitation I am trying my best restart  with the journey of writing. So with the dawn of year 2017, I am talking bold decision and commitment to update my blog on weekly basis if not twice in a week. Indeed I have committed to compete with myself.

May the prayers be heard by the god and blessed me to accomplish my dream.  May all the obstacles gets dissolves by the suprem power of the god.

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Career centric (Bhutanese Education System)

On 22^nd June, National Council had deliberated length and breadth on several emerging issues in Ministry of Education. I felt relaxed and relieved because at least there is someone who shares same concern of ordinary person like me in the bureaucratic level. I have shared my views on Bhutanese Education System as a “Career Centric System” to incumbent Education Minister during his visit to our school very recently.

My topmost concern in Bhutanese education System is not suddenly about the workload burdens to our teachers and inadequate remuneration to our teachers. Let us keep these issues aside because the interpretation differs from heart to heart. But if someone ignites me to speak on the issues, I will be wordless as I am satisfied with what I am doing and getting.

What bothers me the most is the way we assess our students’ performance in the school. Pen and paper test is the only parameters to measure the performance of our children. No matter how much a student exhibits the quality of good human being, if he or she score less in paper test, then he or she can’t be fitted even in the corner of the society. Only those children with high mental cognition are regarded as god in our education system. A good human being is not always an intelligent person. I believe school is a not place where students only meta-cognition is measured rather school is place where better human beings are produced. But we cannot deny the fundamental fact that reading and writing is important to the face challenges of fast-changing world, but beyond that for me what accounts the most is being a good human with Bhutanese DNA ( Layjumdrey and Thadamsi).

But today in our education system our schools are forced to concentrate more on academic matters. Schools are ranked every year based on academic achievements achieved by the school. And as a result some of the schools even decided to set criteria for new admission solely based on examination marks. After few years there won’t be schools for low achievers. Who says that a low achiever student cannot serve our Tsa-was-sum as that of super achiever? 

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Decade Jubilee.

The dragon flag was hoisted on the top of the mast and it is fluttering in the cold morning breeze. A huge throng had gathered in the courtyard wearing colorful and beautiful attires. On either sides of the courtyard there are stalls piled with toy cars, edible fast foods, office stationeries and other grocery items. And the nature is kind enough to bless the event with cloudless sky. 

Chief guest.

This is Bjishong Central School celebrating “The Decade Jubilee”. The only school in Gasa which host secondary level education was founded in 2007. The school was built under of one of the projects fully funded by government of India (GOI). It is located above beautiful Damji village overlooked by gorgeous mountains from all the corners. The school covers an area of 21.7 acres in the middle of dense temperate forest.

An alumni delivering speech.

The mark the special day, Bjishong Alumnus was invited in advance from various parts of the country. Many of them shared their willingness to support school through formation of Bjishong Alumni Association. Dasho Dzongda the Chief Guest of the day had awarded token of prizes for seven staff of the school for their unwavering services to the school for last 10 years.

The school was founded under the dynamic leadership of 1^st Principal Norbu Gyeltshen(2007-2011). The other 11 energetic teachers had helped him to light the lamp of knowledge in the school. Then there was 193 students ranging from class PP to IX.  The first batch of Class X students were graduated in 2008. Since then the enrollment data kept rising continuously. Under the wise leadership of 1^st Principal, erstwhile Bjishong Middle Secondary School was ranked 27^th amongst the schools of Bhutan in 2011.

Today we have 539 students from 20 districts, with 49 faculties headed by exuberant Principal Karma Sangay. The school was reformed in 2014 as one of the Autonomous School in Bhutan under the directives from Ministry of Education. In the consecutive year the school was reformed as Central School along with 23 other schools across the length and breadth of Bhutan. Approximately there are hundreds of Bjishong graduates pursuing higher education in various collages of Royal University Bhutan, and few in international colleges around the globe. The school aspires to produce more and more productive citizens in times come.   

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As a resource person in my life time.

I may not call myself as a resource person rather I prefer to call myself as facilitator. I was being called by district education authority along with my colleagues to conduct Dzongkhag based In service Program (DBIP) for the first time in my life as a teacher. The program was scheduled from 1^st to 6^th of December 2015.

I neither welcomed the news of DBIP nor did I unwelcome it. I have mixed feelings over it. I was bit afraid and nervous for the first time as I am completely novice facilitator. At the same time I felt I was being called by a stroke of luck because I know that I am never fit to be resource person or facilitator. Never the less I was never handicapped; I had two young, dynamic and exuberant friends who can make our program lively and conducive.  

Finally the big day had approached. I displaced my blanket and waked up before the morning sunlight. I felt bit chilly as it was already winter in Gasa. I rushed towards the bathroom to prepare myself for the day. As I dressed up for the day, my heart was palpating with fear. No matter how much I tried to console myself, I could not boost up my self esteem. I could not enjoy the taste of my breakfast. I took only few spoons of rice and went towards RC campus where I am supposed to conduct the DBIP.  May be I suffered from anorexia on that day because on other days I eat like a bulimic person.

Exactly at 9: am we have arranged everything ready for the day. District Education Officer welcomed every one of us for the program. Though there was a pin drop silence in the hall my heart was beating even faster than before. I forgot everything that I prepared to speak. Nothing got strike in my subconscious mind. All I can remember today is my stammering words throughout session.     

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Australia of Bhutan.

Laya

The beautiful Laya valley is also known as Austra-Laya( meaning Australia for many uneducated people from other districts of Bhutan. As many educated Bhutanese prefer to visit Australia in pursuit of making money, Laya is famous amongst uneducated rural mass. The high mountains of Laya have made nomads fatter in terms of money.

These beautiful mountains of Laya provides perfect host for cordyceps (Chinese caterpillar) which can fetch good amount of money in both local and international market. This year (2015) a kilogram of top quality cordyceps fetched around Nu.1400, 000 approximately equal to $ 23333. The economy of nomads got shoot up within short span of time after His Majesty the fourth Druk Gyalpo granted royalty to harvest the cordyceps a decade ago. Today we can find no Layaps with less than few hundred thousand of bucks in their pocket. Another extravaganza of Layaps can be smelled through their expensive compound bow. None of them handle a bow that is worth less than 100,000 ngultrum.  

Last time I went to deposit few thousands of ngultrum in my account at Gasa BoB (Bank of Bhutan) branch. Shortly I was followed by a Layap women shabbily dressed in her local attire. She must be in mid fifties I assumed. She plodded towards me with slight hesitation in her face, but her shy smile never went off her wrinkled face. Her cone shaped bamboo hat was still resting on her head very comfortably. “Lopen would you mine to fill up this deposit form. I have few amount of ngultrum to be deposited”, she requested to me with her high tone voice. Usually highlanders of Bhutan have sharp tone of voice that irritates our ears. “Yes I will do it for you I answered her” and instantly she lent her deposit form to me. As I started filling up the form I inquired her” “How many amount of ngultrum you have to deposit? Can you tell me the number of different notes as it is mandatory to write in the form? “Lopen I don’t have much amount to be deposited, I have only 1700,000 ngultrum. Here it is and you can count the notes and fill up the form accordingly” she told in her normal voice and handed over the money to me. Oh my god! I have never handled such a huge amount of money in my life time though I am average civil servant. Finally she thanked me with her withered smile.    

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